Ama Dablam Expedition

Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be welcomed by our team representative holding a khata scarf, then driven to your hotel in Thamel. The drive would take about 20-30 minutes, depending on road conditions and traffic jams. Kathmandu is a valley surrounded by green hills, where you can see Nepal’s urban landscape: busy streets, colorful houses, and temple roofs rising above the horizon. 

After checking into your hotel and freshening up, you can relax after a long flight or explore Thamel, a vibrant area with numerous trekking shops, restaurants, and other cultural attractions. In the evening, you can enjoy a welcome dinner with authentic Nepali cuisine and culture. This is a good time to mingle with other members of the expedition team. 

Note: Make sure you have all travel documents and insurance ready for tomorrow.

Day two is for expedition readiness and logistics. In the morning, our expedition leader conducts a briefing on the climbing strategy, acclimatization, the climb’s structure, safety arrangements, and emergency response. All necessary permits for the climbing will be arranged, including the Ama Dablam climbing permit and other documents. A technical gear inspection is conducted to ensure that all necessary expedition equipment is in good condition, including boots, crampons, harnesses, and high-altitude gear. 

Depending on the schedule, a short cultural excursion is made to Swayambhunath or Boudhanath Stupa for a beautiful view of the surrounding area before venturing into the Himalayas to explore the cultures of Hindus and Buddhists.

The trek commences with an early morning scenic flight to Lukla, considered one of the world’s most spectacular mountain airstrips. The short flight offers a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the Himalayan landscape and, on clear days, even a glimpse of some of the highest mountains on Earth, such as Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. 

Once landed, preparations are made to begin the first trek through the valley, along forested routes, Sherpa villages, prayer flags, mani walls, and suspension bridges. The trek is relatively easy and mostly downhill, making it an excellent introduction to trekking. 

Phakding is a serene village located along the valley, with excellent teahouses and a pleasant mountain environment. It is an ideal place to begin the trek to the Khumbu region. 

Trekking Note: For trekkers planning to trek during peak seasons (autumn and spring), it is important to note that Lukla flights operate from Ramechhap Airport instead of Kathmandu due to air traffic regulations. It is essential to make an early start on the road to Ramechhap from Kathmandu.

The trek starts slowly through the Dudh Koshi River valley, through blue pine forests, with suspension bridges to cross, including the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge at Monjo. The entrance to Sagarmatha National Park is at the Monjo checkpoint. The dense forest provides habitat for Himalayan tahr, musk deer, and even the elusive red pandas. The Dudh Koshi River joins Bthe hote Koshi River at their confluence (2,835m).

The last stretch of the day involves a grueling 2-3-hour ascent, gaining 600 meters in altitude over zigzagging switchbacks. At the halfway point, there’s a viewpoint with the first spectacular views of the day for the expedition. The views of Everest (8,848m), Lhotse (8,516m), and Ama Dablam (6,812m) towers rise majestically above the valley.

The Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar (3,440m) comes as a surprise. It’s an amphitheater-shaped town carved into the mountainside. The prosperous trading center offers bakeries, equipment shops, internet cafes, restaurants, the Saturday market, and the Sagarmatha National Park Museum. The sun sets over Kongde Ri (6,187m) and Thamserku (6,623m), with Ama Dablam in golden light.

Today is acclimatization day in accordance with the “climb high, sleep low” approach. Hiking is a form of physical activity that promotes acclimatization and the production of red blood cells.

After Breakfast, we will hike to Everest View Hotel (3,880m), the highest hotel in the world, 2 hours from Namche. The hike goes through the Syangboche village (3,720m), which features a helicopter landing site. The hike passes through forests of rhododendron and juniper. The hotel’s viewpoint offers a 180-degree view of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kongde, and Khumbila. It is the best viewpoint in the Khumbu area.

Alternative options: Khumjung village (3,780m), which features the Edmund Hillary School and the monastery housing the Yeti’s scalp, or the village of Kunde (3,840m), which houses the Hillary Hospital.

In the evening, visit the Tibetan market on Saturdays (if the schedule permits), the Sherpa Museum, which displays the history of mountain climbing, or the Sagarmatha National Park Museum for information on the environment. Overnight in Namche Bazar.

The trail continues gradually along the valley’s eastern slope, offering views of Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. Cross Kyangjuma (3,550m) and Sanasa (3,600m) through alpine meadows with yak herds.

At 3,700m, take the higher route through rhododendron, birch, and juniper woods.

Tengboche Monastery (3,860m) – Khumbu’s most important Buddhist monastery, situated dramatically with Ama Dablam as a backdrop. It houses 60 monks, colorful murals, and Buddha statues. It is possible to attend an afternoon prayer ceremony (3 PM).

Descend steeply through the rhododendron forest, then cross the Imja Khola bridge (3,710m), climb through Deboche (3,820m) and Milingo (3,870m).

Pangboche (3,985m) – the highest permanent settlement with 300+ year-old Pangboche Gompa (the oldest monastery in Khumbu, once home to the Yeti’s hand).

Evening close-up views of Ama Dablam’s south face with stunning sunset alpenglow on the hanging glacier.

After breakfast, we will begin our journey to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. trail, which branches off from the main route to Everest. Climb through alpine terrain with limited vegetation, such as juniper scrubland and rocky moraine fields with glacial rivers, prayer flags, and memorial chortens. The view opens to Kantega (6,782m), Thamserku (6,623m), and the Lhotse-Nuptse wall. Possible sighting of Himalayan Griffon vultures.

Cross the lateral moraine ridges and reach Base Camp (4,600m) next to the Mingbo La Glacier, directly beneath the 2,200m south-west face of Ama Dablam. The camp consists of the dining tent, kitchen tent, communication tent, toilets, and sleeping tents with solar lighting. Afternoon: camp orientation, meeting the climbing Sherpas, acclimatization plan briefing, and an explanation of the route to Camp I (5,700m). Nighttime temperatures range from -10°C to -15°C

Today is a rest and preparation day for altitude adaptation. in Morning, gear organization and safety equipment check (carabiners, harnesses, helmets, crampons, headlamps, ascenders). Technical training: jumar ascending on fixed ropes, rope changes at anchor points, clipping techniques, rappelling with a safety line, cand ommunication techniques.

Short acclimatization hike to 100-200m above the campsite on the initial slopes of the climb. Scenic views of steep rock buttresses, hanging glaciers, and the ridge line. Afternoon: detailed brief on climbing strategies, including rotations, load carrying, timing, and summit plans, weather conditions, and emergency evacuations.

Traditional Buddhist pooja to bless the climb with a lama chanting Buddhist prayers, burning juniper incense, offering rice or tsampa to mountain deities, and tying prayer flags. All members will participate and be given rice and silk scarves to take along on the climb. Evening: organizing summit bags with down suit, insulated boots, gloves, goggles, face protection, energy snacks, insulated water bottles, and emergency items.

Cross boulder fields and moraine to fixed ropes at 4,900m. Steep rock slabs and mixed ground with jumar ascenders. Rope sections are 50-60 meters long. Steep sections are at 45-55 degrees. Safe transition to the next section. Hanging glacier at 5,400 meters. Crevasses, severe exposure. Camp I is on a narrow ridge with 360° views of Everest, Lhotse, and Khumbu. Camp I. Descend to base camp the same day or spend the night at Camp I.

Rest Days: 1-2 days at base camp. Physiological rest. The body replenishes red blood cells, adjusts breathing rate, and repairs tissues. Walks, equipment checks, hydration with 4-5 liters of water, carbohydrate-rich meals.

Days 13-15: Second Rotation – Camp II (6,000m)

Base camp to Camp I (possibly overnight), then onward the next day. “Mushroom ridge” with ice sculptures formed by the wind. Mixed rock and ice (50-65°). Rock sections requiring climbing ability (5.5-5.7 grade). “Rock band” at 5,900m: steep and technical rock with crampons – Ama Dablam’s crux pitch. Camp II is very exposed, on a thin ridge with thousand-meter drops on either side, and strong winds. Sleep one night, then descend back to base camp.

Days 16-18: Rest, weather forecasting, equipment preparation, and rest.

Days 19-20: Final preparation, packing of summit gear, safety considerations, Sherpa support, weather forecasts, and waiting for the weather window.

Day 21: Base Camp to Camp I (5,700m) Climb: 6-8 hours | Elevation Gain: 1,100m

Wake up early, around 6-7 AM, and follow the familiar route. Arrive at the campsite by early afternoon, rest, hydrate, and prepare for the next day. Wake up during the night and organize the gear needed to reach the summit, check the headlamps, and fill the water bottles with hot tea and soup. Sleeping is difficult because of the high altitude and the wind.

Day 22: Camp I to Camp II (6,000m)  Climb: 5-6 hours | Elevation Gain: 300m 

Wake up around 7-8 AM and begin the climb to the next camp.

This part includes technical ridges and rock bands, and the climb is exposed.

Wake up during the night, lay out the clothes to wear to the summit, prepare the food to pack in the pockets, and fill the water bottles. Sleeping around 6-7 PM is almost impossible due to adrenaline and altitude.

Day 23: SUMMIT DAY – Camp II to Summit (6,812m) Duration: 10-14 hours round trip | Elevation Gain: 812m

11 PM-12 AM: Wake up with hot tea and a light breakfast. Wear all gear for the summit.

12-1 AM: Leave the camp. Steep mixed climb on fixed ropes, crampons front-pointing, and jumar ascending. Visibility is poor because of the darkness.

2-4 AM: Cross over rock outcrops. Cross over the Yellow Tower and Grey Tower, near-vertical rock buttresses. Methodical transitions between anchors are critical. Temperatures are -20°C+.

4-6 AM: Pre-dawn light reveals the Himalayas. The summit ridge has a knife-edge arête with thousand-meter drops on either side. Absolute concentration of the mind is required.

6-8 AM: The steepness of the final pyramid is 60-65 degrees. Every step takes several breaths, half the oxygen of sea level.

8-9 AM: We finally reach the summit (6,812m/22,349ft)! 360° view: Everest (8,848m), Lhotse (8,516m), Nuptse (7,861m), Makalu (8,463m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), numerous 6,000-7,000m peaks. 15-30 minutes maximum.

9 AM-2 PM: Descend to Camp II. Rappel carefully, though exhausted. Snow conditions make avalanches more likely, and dehydration. Arrive at Camp II midday. Rest

Days 24-25: Descent to Base Camp

Complete descent 1-2 days. Concentration required on rappels and exposed sections. Base camp arrival: celebration, relief, thicker air at 4,600m.

Trekback from base camp to Namche Bazar, through Pangboche. over Tengboche, down the valley, up to Namche. Use trekking poles to protect knees. Hot shower, cold beer, celebration at bakeries/restaurants. Deep sleep in oxygen-rich air.

Descend through dense vegetation. Cross Phakding, then continue through Dudh Koshi, passing through pine forests. Arriving at Lukla: celebration dinner with guide/Sherpa team, stories, photos, thanks. Tip Sherpa team. Check with the guide for flight time.

Early flight with final mountain views. Transfer to the hotel. Hot shower, real bed, oxygen abundant. Afternoon: shopping, massage, rest. Evening: farewell dinner with certificate presentation.

Buffer for flight delays from Lukla. Certificate presentation. Free time: sightseeing, shopping, dining, spa, rest. Journal experience, review photos.

Airport transfer 3 hours prior to flight. Khata farewell. 2-3 weeks of rest after the expedition.